Aside from inviting a pair of roaming mountain lions into your garden as a deterrent, installing a deer fence is the best option to keep deer away from your garden.
This installation is not for everyone! It takes a lot of work and can quickly become an expensive undertaking. But the results speak for themselves.
This article is about to:
Installation instructions and tips for DIY Deer Fence
Our expert tutorial contains DIY instructions and all the tips you need for this home installation in your own garden. You’ll also find suggestions on where to find some of our favorite tools and materials to get started.
It’s time to let these deer know that the buffet is closed!
How much do i need?
I work in some houses where deer are fenced in to varying degrees, but one outshines the other.
The property extends ever further and is completely surrounded by fences to ward off deer and other visitors. The only section that is not covered by the barrier is the driveway, and you can bet that this is the only way for our four-legged friends.
Don’t worry – it may not be necessary to cover all of your belongings. Place a barrier nearby Your vegetable garden also works miracles! One of my clients allows the deer to eat their ornamental plants, but it fences their vegetables to keep them safe.
Take into account natural barriers and structures that can serve as parts of a wall so that fences are no longer required. Those 20 feet eaten by your shed may seem unimportant when you order 100 foot fence rolls, but it could save you from buying an extra, wasted roll.
What kind of accessories do I need?
You can improvise a amount with this project. The basic requirements are the fence itself, a kind of support to which the fence can be attached, and something to attach the fence to these supports.
I fenced trees, reinforcement bars and light poles with cable ties, wire and staples. Grass scars work when you don’t want to buy pens that are specially sold for deer fencing.
Here are some options to consider when installing your fence:
Supports – Everything you can attach your deer fence to
- Reinforcement lengths that are 9-10 feet long
- Special deer fence posts (more on this below)
- Existing structures
Fasteners – Everything you use to attach your fence to supports
- Cable ties (my preferred option)
- Strong but flexible wire
- Rope (choose a synthetic material to avoid deterioration)
Installation tools – everything you need to install your fence
- A powerful hammer for driving supports into the ground
- Wire cutters for cutting wire and fences (Good scissors work well)
- Staples and Staplers (Carpenter Staples Are Ideal)
- Gloves (the fence may have some sharp or sharp parts)
Ladders – Strong and secure support to get up
- We love using the Little Giant style ladder, but any safe ladder that reaches these heights will work
When installing your fence with the special posts, you need the following:
Many of these products are conveniently available on Amazon. Just follow the links above and later in this article to get my recommendations.
How to install deer fencing
The basic requirement here is the same regardless of which installation method you choose. I will describe every step of the process and do my utmost to address possible scenarios that you will encounter along the way.
1. Outline the perimeter of your fence
Do you know how many people start this work without thinking about where to go ?!
Use a measuring wheel or old-fashioned measuring tapes to determine the distance your fence must travel. This way you get a good estimate of how much fence you need. However, consider an additional factor of about 10% that you need to cover faults in the entire fence material, faults and possible replacement.
Attention! Remember to consider the total distance that permanent structures such as buildings, thick hedges and other obstacles need.
2. Lay out your corners
Don’t you build your fence over a square area? That’s okay, “corners” are interchangeable with “cardinal points”.
Your goal here is to give yourself certain reference points to which you can attach your fence. If you encounter complications or errors during the installation, you can always step back and refer to your defined reference points to get back on track.
Attention! Apply sticky tape or spray paint so you can spot these spots without blinking too hard.
3. Start your installation
Yes, let’s get Fencin!
Open the fence roller and attach it to your first support structure. If you’re a stickler for a clean and sharp look, you can detach all of these hanging parts from the edge of the net before attaching it.
I like to start fencing with a strong and solid cable tie placement or wire winding.
Follow these guidelines when attaching your deer fence to a new post:
For reinforcement bars or similar supports
Hammer this sucker into the ground!
You want to get into the ground at depths of at least one foot. Most deer fences are sold at a height of around two meters. Therefore, your supports must be at least three meters above the ground after you have firmly inserted them into the ground.
You can use a post-hole driver for it, or you can hold it and hammer it the old fashioned way.
Avoid the temptation to use an inexpensive material like bamboo. It will eventually rot and undo all of your work.
For deer fence-specific posts and sleeves
Place the sleeve where you want to install it in the ground and put on the striking cap. If you have a partner, let them hold your sleeve while you careful Hammer the cap into the ground.
When you are alone, you can drive the sleeve into the ground like a nail in wood.
Insert the sleeve until it is flush with the slope, then add the post. It should slide and snap in effortlessly.
Attach the fence to the post from the bottom of your fence material and work your way up the support. Leave about 4 to 6 inches of play to account for dips and hills when you stretch it out. You can pin the extra fence at any time and lock it flush with the ground when you don’t need this game.
Attention! Sometimes the network has a lot of “memory”. That is, it tends to maintain the curled shape it had in the role and will struggle to return to that position. Extend your fence a few meters and bend it in the direction it was rolled up to remove this memory.
4. Aaaaaand continue this installation!
Keep this process going! You can safely place most lightweight deer nets about 20 feet between posts, while metal fences and those made of heavier materials should have supports about 15 feet apart.
Place your supports at intervals and roll off your fences. Attach it with your preferred material. I’m a fan of cable ties, but whatever works for you works for you too!
Attention! You will likely encounter rough spots in the ground that contain rocks and other obstacles. If your distance on a given route needs to be 17 feet instead of 20 feet, that’s fine! If you encounter obstacles (such as houses), you can attach the fence to it with carpenter clips (or your preferred material) and cut the net flush. Then continue on the other side of the obstacle.
When you reach the end of your fence and return to the starting point, simply tie the fence together as neatly and attractively as possible and wrap things up!
Reinforcements and repairs
From Selection of deer-resistant trees to Deer that protect your garden in general There are ways to reinforce your deer fence that don’t require deep pouring of cement and machine gun turrets.
Installing your deer fence in a way that is coordinated with other natural barriers such as hedges, walls, and natural deterrents is the smartest way to reinforce your fence. The use of smelly detergents like Scram works well, but also provides an alternative food source for local deer.
My uncle accepts some deer damage in his back yard garden lot, but he minimizes the damage from stockings Heap of corn and Apples a thousand feet from his garden lots. The deer are hungry. So if you feed them before they get to your property, they are less likely to destroy it!
Should I use a pull wire?
It depends on!
Laying a cable along the top of your posts can help keep your fence secure and taut, but I find the process unnecessary. It invites installation and maintenance to a world of aggravation, so I do not recommend using a tension wire.
If you Really However, I want to use it like this:
To attach the tension wire to the reinforcement, you can wrap the wire tightly around the reinforcement and proceed to the next post.
If you use special fence posts for this project, loop the wire and run a handle through the wire. Then tighten the handle with the ratchet tool.
This method tends to bend the posts as you work up and down the line, but applying the same tension along the fenceline helps straighten things out.
Attach the top edge of the fence to the tension wire with cable ties or your preferred fastener, and you’re done!
If you want to use special fastening tools, you need:
Although a well-made fence is largely hidden from your sight, it should be visible to the deer itself and to birds.
This is especially important when setting up your fence for the first time since the deer are not used to the barrier being there and can jump right in, which ruins all your hard work.
I also had to pull out too many dead birds that got caught in the fence. So let’s minimize this gruesome sight too.
I like it when rolls of easily visible tape hang around the fence about every six feet at about head height. Let the loose ends dangle and move in the wind so that the animals can see them from a distance.
Although the fence strongly prevents the deer from entering the isolated area, they are can Jump through when you need it or when you don’t see it.
Most deer can jump up to 8 feet in the air. So if your fence has a low point, they can find it and try to make the jump. Unfortunately, this often tears off the fence at this point because the deer can’t clear it!
This leads us to …
Repairs and maintenance
Fortunately, this is a no-brainer. Give your fence line a little walk about once a week and inspect it for any damage.
You will literally zip up parts of the fence that have come loose from their supports, or reinsert pens into the ground to hold it in place. This is almost identical to the installation process. I’ve seen deer scuffle under the fence, so don’t forget those pins!
Marmots could chew their teeth or a fallen branch could damage the fence, making major repairs sometimes necessary. If there is a small tear in the material, you can close it with your fastening material again with a zipper. It’s going to be a bit ugly, but it does the job!
Otherwise, you should use the replacement network that you have stowed somewhere. Cut out the damaged area with scissors or scissors. Cut a new piece of fence and – yes, you guessed it – close it. Cut your repair piece so that it is one square larger than the area you are repairing.
For example, if you cut out a fence section that is 6 squares high and 8 squares wide, your replacement part should be 7 squares high and 9 squares wide. This strengthens the strength of your repair.
That’s all for now
Not too crazy about a project, is it? As long as you’re ready to install the posts, all you have to do is tie and zip a lot!
The project is simple enough to complete. And once your vegetables, ornamental plants, and other property are protected from the insatiable deer by an 8-foot fence, it’s easier to sleep at night.
Thanks for reading. Please leave questions or comments below.